1、 The cross-section of the flow channel is generally made in a ladder shape, and the adhesive port is also the same (it is definitely not allowed to make a hidden adhesive port, as the toughness of the electric wood is poor and cannot be molded), because the plastic mold needs to maintain heat energy as much as possible before the filling is completed, while the electric wood mold needs to absorb heat energy;
2、 The steel for mold forming is required to maintain high hardness (about HRC60), high impact toughness (not easy to collapse and crack), corrosion resistance and wear resistance under high temperature. We generally use our ASSAB VIKING steel, and generally use ASSAB VANADIS-10 (V-10) powder steel to insert the rubber opening;
3、 Compared to ordinary plastic molds, the matching of molds is relatively better (because electric wood is prone to burrs). Then, on the well matched parting surface, exhaust grooves should be opened (not on the side of the insert like plastic molds), which means intentionally leaving burrs and sharp edges in designated areas. The edge of the molding cavity should be ground to a depth of about 0.04 and a width of about 2.0, and then the edge of this groove should be ground to a depth of about 0.15 and a width of 3-5. It should be opened all the way to the outside of the mold and polished well. The reason is that the exhaust groove of the electric wood mold is actually equivalent to the overflow groove of the die-casting mold and other molds. The exhaust groove will definitely be filled with material, so the purpose is to automatically bring out the overflow material in the exhaust groove for each beer product to facilitate the production of the next beer;
4、 Use a large R-angle transition as much as possible for the molding cavity and insert molding parts (to reduce internal stress in the product and enhance local strength of the mold);
5、 Heating tubes or other heating devices should be arranged as evenly as possible inside the mold, and it is best to maintain direct contact with the mold surface. Attention should be paid to avoiding holes on the mold and getting as close as possible to the adhesive position. At the same time, the minimum distance between the edge of the heating element and the nearest adhesive position should not be less than 20 millimeters. The temperature measuring part of the thermocouple (temperature sensing wire, temperature probe) should be separated from the heating device by more than 20 millimeters, and should also penetrate the mold surface by more than 20 millimeters and maintain a distance of about 15 millimeters from the adhesive position.
6、 The larger the nozzle, the better. The main channel angle should be 3-4 degrees, the flow channel should be polished, the inlet gate should be divided (tungsten steel or SKH51), there should be more exhaust grooves, and the straight ones should not surround the product, which is difficult to clean. A normal burr of 0.1 is reasonable, and all internal parts of the mold need to be polished (otherwise it is easy to stick to the mold, stick to burrs, and not resistant to erosion). The ejector pin should be large, and exhaust grooves should not be opened on top, which is prone to jamming. Usually, plastic molds will avoid gaps at the four corners of the mold. It is recommended that electric wood molds do not avoid gaps (any impurities left in the gaps under the action of the heating rod are not good, especially when the material is powder). Stainless steel is commonly used as the material, and a dedicated beer machine should be used during production.